Monday, June 8, 2009

adios al carretera

Here we have pictures from our time at La Iguana Chocolate. Above is yet another ruined church, in Puriscal - the closest main town two hours from the farm.
A cocoa pod, which holds the soft white beans that you can chew and suck on for a nice fruity flavor.
Grinding chocolate.

Long-Billed Hermit hummingbird (we IDed it from an animal book they had at the farm, which we also used to ID venomous and false/venemous snakes, green poison arrow frogs and other jungle creatures) which wasn`t shy at all, as it sat on that branch while I shot it for a good ten minutes, with flash!
The babies make it look easy.
Notice the concentration.


Long sweaty hike in the mountains.
Look at that stream!
Drying walnuts.


The color my shoes are now stained.
some kind of fruit squash
The majestic mango tree.




My toes on a regular day.

Spreading out the rice to dry.
An artifact from Zapatòn.

Plastic bottle wall, just cover with cement.



We`ve been in the capital of Costa Rica, San Jose, for the last few nights, milling around the city. Taking my brain out of rural mode, I`m not bumping into people on the sidewalk and walking out in front of traffic anymore! I like this capital, because it`s great for walking around, and there are a lot of museums and galleries here we`ve been making an effort to visit, as well as a ton of beautiful plazas and and shady parks. Parque La Sabana is a bigger park with lots of fields and walking trails, and on Sunday it was filled with families and dozens and dozens of soccer games happening on every inch of grass.





And so the day has come. We`re savoring the last day of our 8 months on the road, reflecting on everything we`ve learned and what we have to look forward to at home. I appreciate everyone who`s been keeping up with our travels and sending along encouragement, it`s been a life changing experience.

Thursday, June 4, 2009

la finca cacao

After camping on a couple beaches on the Nicoya Penninsula, we trekked our way high up into the mountains of the Pacific Slope, to a small villiage of about 140 people called Mastatal. A town with a a school, a bar and two tiendas, no grocery or bank or hardware store, the nearest town where you can find these things 2 hours away. A place where the bus passes through only once a day, where only a couple people have trucks, and most ride motor bikes that they can`t take out of the town because they don`t have a license.

We came here to work on a cacao farm called La Iguana Chocolate, learning the process of turning cacao into chocolate. We thought we came at the time to help with the harvest, but the pods won`t be ready for another couple months. We took fermented and dried beans, roasted them on a fire in the yard in a big metal bowl, stirring with a wooden plank; we cracked the shells by hand (which causes a big thumb blister); we ground the beans on an old metal crank grinder - often breaking a sweat - ground them again and again until the final product was fine enough to make cocoa powder or to add flavor and cocoa butter for making deliscious little pieces of chocolate. We also ate brownies and chocolate banana milkshakes.
The family that owns and lives on the farm are wonderful Costa Ricans, whom we got to know very well and got really comfortable with. They have a lot of beautiful space perched in the hills, with horses, chickens, cows, dogs and a cat the dogs wish to eat. We woke up with the sun, to moos and cockadoodledoos, and slept through thunder and lighting every night.
After working we played a lot of foosball (or getting whooped by Jaun Luis the dad), spent time in the villiage getting to know the locals at the pulperìa, and spent a Sunday afternoon watching the men of the family playing soccer against other villiages, on their team Los Galacticos.
We milked the cows a couple times, much more difficult than I imagined, but quite an experience. It`s not just yanking! There`s a finess that really gives you a hand cramp.

We also came up with a solution to the family`s huge trash problem. There`s no garbage service in Mastatal, so if it`s trash that can`t be burned, it either piles up on the property, or is sent on the bus to Puriscal for dump for a fee. At La Iguana there`s two years worth of plastic bottles and random garbage piling up, so we told them about a plastic bottle constructed wall we saw on Lake Atitlan in Guatemala. You take plastic bottles, stuff them as densely as possible with the rest of trash like plastic bags and non recyclable materials, then essentially use the heavy bottles as bricks using cement to finish it off to build walls, or even a house as we`ve seen pictures of online. The family got really excited over this, even Lidiette the mom was out there stuffing garbage into bottles with us. What to do with the garbage has always been an important topic. We took about 10 sacos (kind of like a potato sack, about the size of a large garbage bag) of trash and compacted it all into 2 sacos full of plastic bottles. With 4 people working on it it took us about 2 work days. We couldn`t stay long enough to see the experiment wall constructed, but with all of the excitement over the idea, I know that it will be beneficial to the farm and the villiage, and hope that they will have future volunteers on the project.

On one day a guy who works with the family on getting the volunteers out there took us on a 13 km hike to the next town, an indigenous villiage called Zapatòn. We stopped along the way at friends` homes, having coffee or just taking a break from the hike. One family built cabañas to bring in extra money from tourists who come to the mountains for La Congreja National Park, and I took pictures and agreed to help them set up a website to get the info out there. Another family served us huge plates of rice and beans for lunch, just because they knew we must be hungry. I photographed indigenous artifacts for documentation for the villiage, and drawings school children had made of local medicinal plants for postcards. Eventually the rain came, like every afternoon, and we hitched back in a electric company`s truck, stopping to hear customer complaints along the way.

Srangely enough, there was a group from UW at another ranch in Mastatal, and we met two girls from Tacoma, one of whom we vaguely remembered from Mason. What a small crazy world.



So now we`re at a beach on the Pacific side of the mainland, called Uvita, where it`s not touristy at all really, and the town and where we`re camping is about a 20 minute walk from the beach, which is in a national park (which you`re supposed to pay an entrance fee for, but they told us how to get in without paying). The place we`re staying at is a hostel kind of thing, and the last couple nights we were overrun by a group from Arcadia University who made it feel like a rowdy college dorm. Now they`re gone and we have the hammocks and pool table to ourselves.

I won`t be able to upload pics until we get to San Jose on the 6th.

Thursday, May 14, 2009

beach camp

So we decided to rent a car to get from Playa Sámara to Playa Montezuma, because the bus would have taken us 6 hours plus a few transfers and a ferry ride, to get there, which is only just along the coast a few hours. But after talking to the guy who rented us a mini SUV, he told us that we couldn`t take the road along the coast because of the rainy season, since most highways aren`t paved. So we drove up the penninsula some and back down the other side. We definitely needed the 4-wheel drive. It was a fun experience, driving Costa Rica´s rocky highways.


Playa Montezuma is similar to Sámara in some ways, but pretty different. This town is more "discovered", more tourist oriented businesses and hotels, people selling artesanías on the street and making a lot of sales. There´s also a bit of a sketchy element, since it seems that there are a lot of people who just sleep on the beach. Particulary at the hotel where we´re camping. We keep a lock on the tent, whatever good that may do against an opportunistic theft. But the place we`re staying has a smaller beach separated from the main beach by a rocky point, so I`m working on my tan a lot, sleeping only a few feet from the ocean. Because of the rockiness, there´s no surfing right here, so Ian´s bruises and raspberries have a chance to heal.

We´ve also been staying dry through rainstorms nearly every night we´ve been in the country.


cheese.



Monday, May 11, 2009

a mix up of pictures

Here we are in Costa Rica! We are cruising the famous Pacific beaches of the Nicoya Penninsula, known for great surfing. Ian is taking it up, and I am dutifully cheering and photographing from the shore. We spent a night in Liberia after crossing the border. Nothing exciting. We've spent the last few days here at Playa Samara, where there are good beginners' waves and beautiful views for everyone else.





Here I have a random assortment of pics from the last few weeks, in no real order.





















The ruined cathedral in Managua, Nicaragua. After earthquakes in the 70's, lack of funds for rebuilding and fears of more quakes, it sits in shambles.





Granada, Nicaragua-




































Local dance and costume in the plaza in Granada.




















The swine flu scare has reached Nicaragua.


























Couchsurfer's house in Granada.





















Observing an everyday street procession of a Jesus, in Granada, Nicaragua. These processions are usually accompanied by a marching band.


























Ian's sweet caracol ear plugs.








































Ponies.





















































Ian learns to surf at Playa Samara, Costa Rica. Yo, no.





































A dusty soccer game on Isla de Ometepe






















Our sweaty bike ride from Moyogalpa back to Charco Verde on Isla de Ometepe






















Volcan Maderas

























Playa Santo Domingo, Isla de Ometepe, Nicaragua





















The twin volcanoes of Isla de Ometepe, Nicaragua






















What I like to believe are wild ponies living on a cliff above Playa Samara. They come rollicking down the beach and through our campsite, untamed and majestic.





















Our camp setup on Isla de Ometepe, Nicaragua, where we survived a full blown tropical thunderstorm, dry as a bone.